How do I know which rear end gears I really need?

How do I know which rear end gears I really need?

How to determine the right gear ratio for your car

Rear end gears are EXTREMELY important for how a car performs, whether it be for drag racing, road racing, 1/2 or 1 mile racing, and even the impact on daily driving, for those dual purpose vehicles.  In fact, they are every bit as important as the engine, modifications and even the driver. If you don’t have the right gear ratio, even with a super powerful engine, your car can end-up being a complete non-performer.

When deciding on a set of rear end gears, you have to take into consideration and know what RPM you’ll be at for any given speed you’ll be traveling. If you want your car to be quick off the line and launch hard with a super quick 0 – 60 MPH time, you’ll need low or short gears. If you want your car to be a top speed monster, you’ll need high or tall gears. The numbers are deceiving because a high gear ratio has a low number, and a lower gear ratio has a higher number.  They are ratios, so the numbers can fool you. A really low set of gears would be 513’s . It’s a low gear ratio but it has a high number. A really tall set of gears would be something like 311’s.

Here are a few examples:  First, rear end gears are no different than the sprockets you have on any given 10 speed bicycle. To do wheelies and be able to climb steep hills, you need low gears. You can’t do a wheelie in anything higher than 4th gear on a typical 10 speed bike because the gear ratio is just too tall. In retrospect though, you aren’t going to go fast down the road if you are in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear.  More of an example would be putting the bike in 5th gear and trying to do a wheelie, not going to happen.  Further, put the bike in 1st or 2nd gear and try to ride 30 MPH, again, not going to happen. You won’t be able to because your legs can’t spin the pedals fast enough. You’ll run out of RPM and will need to shift to a higher gear. Rear end gears on cars are no different, and having the wrong gear ratio is exactly like trying to do a wheelie in 5th gear, or trying to go down the road at 30 MPH in 1st. Both attempts will fail because the gear ratios are completely wrong for what you are trying to accomplish.

Drag racing cars need low gearing so they can launch as hard a possible, and get to the 1/8th or 1/4 miles finish as soon as possible.  distance cars, like 1/2 or 1 miles runs, or even something like a Bonneville race car needs tall gears to be able to reach the high speeds over longer distance they need.  Another way to look at it; the shorter the gear the faster you get to the finish line for a short distance race, and the taller the gear the higher stop speed you go in a longer distance, though it takes you longer to get to that speed. When customers want to make their cars perform more, and don’t know any better, the only thing they look at and consider is the engine. The engine is literally only part of the battle. The gearing is the other half.

More examples:  A car at the drag strip with 4.11 gears and a 300 HP engine will launch harder and get off the line faster and will be quicker than a car that has 500 HP and gears that are way too tall. 80% of the race is the first 80 feet! If you can’t launch and get to your speed quickly, you won’t run a good elapse time for that short race. It also means you’ll get your doors blown off in a street race from stoplight to stoplight. You can brag all you want that your engine has 500 HP when your buddy only has 300, but if he has the right gearing, his little 300 HP car is going to send you home crying to mommy when you lose a race from a dead stop to 75 MPH or so, which is where 99% of street races happen.

So, how do I know which gear ration I need?

The best way to figure out what gear ratio is best for your car is to first make a solid decision on how and where you’ll be driving the car. If you want to drive on the streets, do easy burnouts, be quick on the street, and look great at the weekly drags, then you’ll want a set of gears that matches that style of driving, which in this case would be low gears. The thing you need to do is determine what MPH you think your car is capable of hitting, or what your max RPM is for the distance and transmission gear, based on cams, valve springs and where your engine and tune maxes out on the power curve.

If your engine power peaks at 6,400 RPM, then there’s no reason to rev beyond that point because you’ll only be slower. Too many like to brag about how high their engine can rev, which just shows how much they don’t know about cars, engines, and performance. Sure, many engines can rev way past their peak horsepower, but it’s counter productive to run it past that point because you won’t be accelerating at the same speeds. You always go by where it peaks out on power… nothing higher in RPM than that or you’re wasting time…slower ET’s!

So using the 6,400 RPM example, you won’t want to go through the finish line higher than that or the car is and isn’t pulling as hard as it was when it was under that peak RPM.

So how do I calculate gear ratio needed?

The next thing you need to do is measure the diameter of the rear tires you’re running. Let’s use 28″ for this baseline. To determine how fast you can go at the 6,400 RPM limit with 28″ tall tires, some simple math is used to calculate it with any gear ratio. The math is: RPM x tire diameter, so 6400 x 28″ = 179200. Now take the gear ratio you want to check against and times it by 336. I’m going to use 4.11’s as a baseline, so 4.11 x 336 = 1380.96. Now divide the 179200 into the 1380.96 and we get 129.79. That means our top speed at 6,400 RPM with a 28″ tall rear tire will be right at 130 MPH.

Torque converter slip is also something very important to keep in mind too! Even though 6,400 RPM is much higher than what hot street cars run for stall converters, most are usually around 3,000 RPM or so, they still have some slippage of 200 or 300 RPM or at high RPM, so you need to be aware of this when calculating any of these equations. This is especially true when trying to determine what RPM you’ll be at when traveling down the freeway at 60 MPH because at that low of an RPM, your 3,000 RPM stall converter is slipping several hundred RPM which will throw you a curve ball when trying to calculate these numbers. In other words, the math might say you’ll be at say, 2,700 RPM at 60 MPH, but if you have a slippy converter, such as a 3,000 – 3,500 stall, you can easily have 500 or more RPM of slippage which will add to that cruise RPM you calculated. So the reality is, you might THINK you’ll be at 2,700 RPM but with the converter slippage you could really be at something more like 3,200 RPM or more!

So looking at that 129.79 (130) MPH number we calculated, that’s within the quarter mile time of a typical low to mid 10 second car. If you think your car can’t run 10’s then you can adjust the gear ratio up or down to suit what speed or RPM you want to go through the finish line at. Let me give you an example; swapping those 4.11 gears out for a set of 4.56’s and using the same numbers, you’ll be going through the finish line at 116.96 (117) MPH at 6,400 RPM. Not as “fast” mile per hour wise, but you’ll launch harder and will get there quicker.

Let’s take this same set-up and see what it does with a typical set of stock street gears of 3.25’s. 6,400 RPM x 28″ tall tires = 179200. 3.25 gears x 336 = 1092. Divide 179200 by 1092 and you get 164.10 MPH. In other words, with a typical street car that has 400 – 450 HP you’ll NEVER be able to get to 164 MPH in a quarter mile, let alone 1 full mile because most cars will float and lose control at that speed without suspension modifications, ground effects, etc, so that gear ratio is completely useless for drag or street racing, although it’s a great ratio for running down the highway at a decent RPM for long distances.

So let’s take a look at running down the freeway using this same car set-up and numbers. If you aren’t into drag or street racing and you live in an area where you mostly do freeway driving for extended periods of time, you won’t want (or even care about) a low gear ratio for jack rabbit starts. You’ll instead want something that’ll get you better gas mileage and cruise down the highway at a decent RPM. So let’s look at a couple of equations for determining what speed and RPM you’ll be at for a given gear ratio and tire diameter. I’m going to use 70 MPH as our cruise speed with the same 28″ tire diameter we used before. This is a slightly different equation so pay attention to the numbers. 70 MPH x the axle ratio you want to see about x 336. So 70 x let’s try a gear set of 3.50’s, x 336 = 82320. Now divide that number into the tire diameter which will give us the RPM at 70 MPH.  82320 28″ = 2,940 so at 70 MPH with 3.50 gears and 28″ tall tires you’ll be at 2,940 RPM.

Again, you must take into consideration torque converter slip! If you have a slippy converter of say, 3,000 RPM, then you are definitely going to see 300 or so more RPM than what the math just gave you unless you have a lock-up converter OR you are running a manual transmission. another very important thing to consider is what type of tranny you are running. In other words; does it have an overdrive? All of this math is for a 1:1 high gear ratio which is what all TH-350, TH-400, C-4, C-6, FMX automatics have for high gear, as well as pretty much all 3 and 4 speed manual transmissions. If you have an overdrive tranny then you can calculate the number by dividing the overdrive percentage into the final number. If you have a .80 overdrive (20% overdrive), then remove 20% from that RPM number and you’ll be in the ball park for what your 70 MPH cruise RPM will be.

So let’s look at that same scenario with 3.00 gears just so we “get’ the math better. 70 MPH x 3.00 gears x 336 = 70560 Divide that by the 28″ tall tire diameter that I chose which = 2,520. So with 3.00 gears that same car at 70 MPH dropped from 2,940 RPM to 2,520. That means there is a 420 RPM difference between 3.00 gears and 3.50 gears on that car.

More ways to skin this cat!

Let’s say you already have an idea of how fast you want your car to be and at what RPM the engine peaks out at and you want to know what gear ratio to go with so the engine’s RPM maxes out at the top speed you want to go. This is another simple equation. So let’s first determine the baseline numbers. Let’s say it’s a 66 Mustang with a hot little 331 stroker in it that dyno’d at 410 HP at 5,670 RPM, so we’ll call it 5,700 RPM max. The car is going to be used on the street and maybe some weekend drag racing just for some fun. It isn’t realistic to think a 331 with 410 HP will propel a car like that to 150, or even 120 MPH on a drag strip, so let’s say 110 MPH is a reasonable top speed for that car for either at the track or for running down the open back roads. A Mustang usually has a pretty short tire diameter of like 25 inches, so we’ll use 25″ as our baseline. So we don’t want to go through the finish line at any higher RPM than 5,700 RPM and we want the top speed to be 110 so the math is: 5,700 x the tire diameter (25) which = 142500. Now we take the 110 MPH and x it by 336 which = 36960. Now take 142500 and divide it by 36960 to give us the gear ratio of 3.86. There are some 3.80 gears out there but for most gear manufacturers only offer 3.73’s and 4.10’s. Occasionally you’ll find 3.89’s or 3.91’s, but just to keep it simple, let’s say your choices are either 3.73’s or 4.10’s. This is an easy one to figure out. If you went with the 3.73’s, at 110 MPH you’d be spinning 5,514 RPM, which you might think is a little low for what you want, BUT if you’re running an automatic transmission with a stall converter of say 2,600 RPM it will have a little bit of slippage, even at that RPM, so figure on about another 200 – 300 RPM which would make that RPM more like 5,700 – 5,800 which is pretty much right on the money for where you want to be at.

Just for giggles, if you chose to run the 4.10 gears, at 110 MPH you’d be spinning 6,061 RPM. Now add the torque converter slippage of a couple of hundred RPM and you’re up into the 6,300 RPM area which is just too high for an engine that peaks in power at 5,700 RPM. In almost all cases it’s better to go less in RPM than too much. It’s also easier on the engine and components.

Here are the math equations:

To determine what RPM you’ll be at for any given gear ratio and tire diameter:
MPH x Axle Ratio x 336  — Divide that number by the Tire Diameter

To determine what speed you’ll be going with a given tire diameter and gear ratio:
RPM x Tire Diameter  — Divide that number by the Axle Ratio x 336

To determine what axle ratio you’ll need for a given speed and tire diameter:
RPM x Tire Diameter — divide that number by the MPH x 336

Portions of this post have been taken from several internet locations, all content copyright is still contained by its owners

Turbochargers 101

Turbochargers 101

How a Turbocharger Works

The word turbocharger is actually an abbreviation of the word turbo-supercharger. Yes, a turbocharger is from the same family as a supercharger – it’s all about “forced induction” (FI), or forcing much more air into the engine to allow for a bigger, controlled and designed explosion in the cylinders resulting is much more power output. A turbocharger is designed to increase the amount of compressed air into an engine. Think of it like this, a turbocharger is, more or less, like a mouth blowing huge amounts of compressed air onto a fire to get a flame going.

Typically, both a turbocharger and supercharger will pump around eight pounds per square inch (8psi) of compressed air into the engine, for the base kits that are provided by aftermarket manufacturers. This is around twice normal atmospheric air pressure which is 14.7psi. This means, you can generally accept to increase performance of an engine, via turbocharging, or supercharging, by around 40% or a little less (there are efficiency losses during the process).  These kits can put out far more power and boost pressure when modified to do so, with the appropriate supporting engine modifications in place.  See our article about this HERE!

Unlike a supercharger which uses ‘engine drive’ to power its turbine, a turbocharger uses exhaust gases to spin its turbine which can spin at speeds of up to 200,000rpm – the more exhaust gases you pump into the turbine, the faster it will spin.  This is why custom exhaust manifolds are built to maximize exhaust pressure.  The pressurised and compressed air is then forced into the cylinders of the engine which, along with more fuel being injected at the same time, produced more power because of the bigger explosion that results.

If you’ve driven an older turbocharged car you have likely felt something called ‘lag’, basically this describes the time it takes for the turbocharger to be spinning fast enough to forcing air into the engine.  The feeling of pressing the throttle and then nothing, nothing, nothing, and then EVERYTHING – all the power in the world comes on. Older turbochargers tended to be larger, which took a lot longer to spin up to efficiency.  Today’s systems are smaller and have reduced friction because and start spinning up sooner, so there is far less lag than the previous generations of these implementations.  Going too small has its drawbacks too, Go too small with the turbocharger can cause problems too as it’s spinning faster than the engine can reasonably apply and manage the increase in air and fuel requirements.  More power is common these, as manufacturers are producing twin-turbo charged vehicles with smaller engines.  Getting big V8 power out of 4 and 6 cylinder engines, with less weight and par better fuel economy to boot!

Of course, the automotive aftermarket has exploited the use of turbochargers, and especially twin-turbocharger setups, to get more than 2X the normal power out of an engine.  It’s not uncommon to see a 200hp engine produce more than 400hp with a twin turbocharger setup.  You can imagine the power that be made with a modern V8 at 400HP…

Stay tuned as we explore Superchargers in more detail soon!

Build Your Car The Way You Want It

Build Your Car The Way You Want It

This article is part of a series of posts that will be done over the next few weeks outlining what it takes to build your car, the way you want it, so you get what you expect.  This goes into more detail about our philosophy of consulting a build, guiding, and teaching our customers.  It is very important to us at LA Street Cars that our customers know about any modifications they are buying or interested in, well before they make a decision.  Sometimes the discussion is a few minutes and others several hours or longer; it all depends on what the result is going to be.

We pride ourselves in building reliable performance built and modified vehicles that can be driven daily, reliably.  Of course we also built track purposed vehicles, and this series of posts will deal with all the options and how they affect any decision for a long-term plan for your build.

Now, for this first part of the series, I want to outline a little about what a “build” is.  A build to us, is anything you are doing to change your vehicle from stock to anything aftermarket.  From wheels and tires, to intakes and exhaust, to suspension and other performance modifications such as forced induction, and even paint correction.

Some may wonder why we deal with small things like wheels and tires or a paint correction as a project.  Simply put, every done has a result or reaction somewhere else on the vehicle.  Any of the vehicle systems could have impact and possibly need to be planned for in some way.  For wheel and tires, as an example, the right combination can either benefit or hurt performance versus just add to the looks of the car, depending on how the vehicle is being driven.  For a paint correction, the “customer” will need to know how to take care of the car going forward to maintain its new pristine look for years to come.  If we go to performance modifications, other systems like fuel, brakes, suspension, tires and wheels, and even driver training and awareness need to take place.  Additionally, if the car is for show, versus a daily driver, versus track car, coatings and sealants will take a major part in the solution.

As easy as some modifications and customizations may seem, there are always considerations to be made and understood by all involved.  We don’t like surprises…and we surely know that you don’t either, so we work on making sure we plan for hindsight when possible.

We don’t believe in “should”.  As in, we should have, or you should have, and what if we did this instead….after the fact.

This is what makes us different!

When do I need engine modifications for Forced Induction?

When do I need engine modifications for Forced Induction?

Engine Modifications and When to do them!

Whenever we are customizing a car that will employ some type of power adder, major upgrades or modifications will become necessary to safely handle the increase in power. What mods and how much will depend on the engine and the application and how much additional power the modifications are expected to make. An engine that’s going into a drag car or some other type of race car may not rack up a lot of miles in a season but the miles it runs will be hard miles at full throttle under heavy load. Street engines, on the other hand, spend most of their time running under relatively light loads and only occasionally are called upon to produce maximum power. They are expected to last tens of thousands of miles without any major problems. So it can be argued that engine durability is just as important for both types of power adder applications, while one of the applications will arguably require far more detailed maintenance and possible rebuilding of certain components on a more frequent basis.

The upgrades that are necessary to handle power adders will depend on the engine and the power level the engine is built to produce and how much power the end game is being designed for. For a typical street application, changes to the stock pistons, rods and crankshaft are usually unnecessary unless a ­customer wants to make insane levels of power. Most stock block V8s can safely handle 150 to 200 extra horsepower on the street without encountering any major problems.

When an engine’s power output exceeds about 600 hp with a small block, or 800 hp with a big block, upgrades start to become mandatory with power adders.  Again, it depends on how the car will ultimately be driven.  A few examples follow.

Let’s take a newer Mustang for example.  The new S550 platform has the ability to handle almost 2X the power without any significant engine modifications taking place.  That means the 2015+ V8 Mustang can reach almost 800 Wheel Horsepower (WHP) with the addition of a supercharger or turbo setup without much of an issue at all.  If the car is being daily driven and spends only a few days at the track, then you will likely not need very much, or any, engine fortifying at all.  However, when breaching that 600-650WHP level, some drivetrain modifications will be needed, as the stock driveshaft and rear axles cannot handle that power for very long before they will break and leave you stranded and embarrassed.

The key to deciding on which modifications to make comes with some consulting time.  We need to fully understand how the car will be used and how you drive it in racing situations.  Some drag racers drop the hammer when the RPM’s are above 4000 when coming off the line, other’s maybe 6000RPM, and some just roll into power from about 2000RPM.  The higher levels create a huge amount of stress on drivetrain components, and they will break.  A stronger 1-piece driveshaft is a must and higher performance axles shafts should also be installed.  It also wouldn’t hurt to change the clutch.  Above 600WHP, the factory clutch will not last or grab and basically burn itself out pretty quickly.  If the car is being treated harshly – severe duty driving, possibly a change to the oil pump gears and timing chain gear should also be done.  Again, this requires a deeper conversation to make a reliable recommendation.  These motors can respectively handle 1000WHP+ with drivetrain modifications and the right fuel system, though longevity and reliability will catch up without a solid forged bottom end upgrade.

If we’re talking about a Challenger with the 5.7 engine, you are maxed at the real horsepower it can make to begin with.  The heads on this car cannot breathe enough to handle more than about 550WHP reliably, without being modified to do so, although we have built a few that are at about 600WHP.  At this level, it is strongly advised to change driveshaft and axles as well, and likely the clutch.  Anything planned for above 550WHP should get at least a forged bottom end done with the heads being re-worked as well, among others items.  If the car is a Hellcat, much more can be had, as that engine will breathe and handle far more power.  The drivetrain components can also handle more power and don’t really need to be changed until you breach around 900WHP as well.

If you want to talk about the Camaro, it’s not much different either.  The Ford engine will breathe better than all of them and handle more power adder horsepower in the end with less modifications, which is why they are so popular to build.  It takes larger engines and more build work to make the Camaro and Challenger make the same power as the Ford.  That doesn’t mean we want everyone doing 5.0 swaps, but it is something to think about and remember when buying one of the other cars when considering your build and budget.

What are the differences between Turbo’s and Superchargers?

What are the differences between Turbo’s and Superchargers?

Forced Induction Differences

A turbocharger uses hot exhaust gases to spin its ­turbine wheel, at speeds that will vary based on the exhaust pressure, that is connected by a short shaft to an impeller wheel inside the compressor housing. The impeller sucks air into the turbo housing, compresses it and pushes it into the engine to create boost pressure. As it is compressed, the air gets hot, so the air exiting the turbo is usually routed through an air-to-air or air-to-water heat exchanger called an “intercooler.”

Boost pressure is controlled by a “waste gate” that opens to vent pressure once a certain level of boost has been achieved.

Turbo kits are available for many popular ­applications and greatly simplify installation issues by providing all of the hardware and plumbing that is needed to fit a particular vehicle, including higher flow fuel injectors, a higher flow fuel pump in some cases and a special tuner tool for recalibrating the ECM.

Supercharging, by comparison, typically provides more instant throttle response depending on the type of supercharger that is used. A supercharger is a belt-driven blower so it is somewhat less efficient than a turbo because it takes power from the engine to drive the blower. A turbo gets its drive energy for free from the exhaust but also creates a small amount of power-reducing backpressure that has to be overcome before it develops boost and starts to make power, otherwise termed at turbo lag.

A “positive displacement” supercharger (also called a “Roots” style blower) — like that on the ZR1 Corvette, GT 500 Shelby Mustangs, Roush Mustangs and many street rods — has counter-rotating lobed rotors that force air into the engine. The boost pressure developed depends on engine speed and the underdrive ratio of the pulley on the supercharger.

By comparison, a “centrifugal” supercharger does not have counter-rotating rotors, but uses a compressor design similar to the impeller wheel on a turbocharger. Boost builds with rpm more like a turbo, but throttle response is better because of the belt-drive setup.

Supercharger kits are available for many popular street engines and typically offer a boost in performance of 150 to 200 or more horsepower — which most stock blocks can handle. But additional modifications become necessary to maintain engine reliability with higher levels of boost, as well as safety precautions such as enhanced brake systems.

More about engine and other vehicle systems modifications coming in future posts of this series.  So stay tuned for more to come!

What is Forced Induction

What is Forced Induction

FORCED INDUCTION EXPLAINED

The ­displacement and efficiency of a naturally aspirated ­engine limit how ­much power it can make. The engine can only inhale so much air because the atmospheric force is only 14.7 lbs. per square inch, at sea level mind you.  Atmospheric pressure decreases with elevation. Air density also decreases with temperature because hot air is thinner than cold air.  On top of all of this, most stock naturally aspirated engines can only achieve a peak efficiency ­of 75% to 85%.

Small block or big block Chevy, Ford or Chrysler engines are ­usually ­limited to two valves per cylinder and fixed valve timing, but if you’re working on a late-model engine, multiple valves per cylinder and variable valve timing can help improve breathing ­efficiency, and do so at extreme levels compared to just 10-15 years ago.

Common ways to improve airflow on naturally aspirated engines

• Installing a higher lift, longer duration camshaft.

• Modifying the stock heads or replacing them with aftermarket performance heads that have larger valves and better ports.

• Installing an intake manifold with taller and longer runners to help ram more air into the cylinders.

• Installing a larger throttle body or carburetor (or multiple carburetors) that can flow more CFM (cubic feet per minute).

• Adding an air scoop or cold air intake ­system to help route more and cooler denser air into the engine.

• Improving exhaust scavenging with headers and crossover pipes that help improve air flow out of the cylinders.

With such improvements, it is possible to boost an engine’s volumetric efficiency into the 90% range or even higher. But achieving 100% or higher volumetric efficiency (especially at higher rpms) usually requires some type of forced ­induction system such as a turbocharger or ­supercharger…and we call this Forced Induction.

Forced Induction

A forced induction system overcomes the limitations of atmospheric pressure by pushing more air into the cylinders. Consequently, the engine’s power output becomes a function of how much boost it gets. What’s more, dialing up the boost pressure overcomes a lot of deficiencies in the induction system and cylinder heads that would otherwise limit air flow and the engine’s volumetric efficiency.

After all, it is much easier to push air into an engine with a turbo or blower than to suck it in with intake vacuum alone.

Even with a relatively moderate amount of boost like 6 to 8 psi, a forced induction system can easily increase the power output of a typical street engine 150 or more horsepower.

Turn up the boost pressure to 14 to 16 psi and you can usually double the power output of most engines. Crank it up even more and you’re off to the races.

We’ll address the the differences of the various air induction systems and technologies in the rest of the series, so stay tuned!

Race Car Planning

Race Car Planning

How to Plan a Race Car Build

There are many things to think about when upgrading performance for any vehicle.  As noted in the first post of this series.  For this post, I want to focus on the overall planning process.

The first step for LA Street Cars, and our customers, is to have a full understanding of the use of the vehicle.  How will it be driven?  Daily?  Weekends only?  Shows?  Track use and what kind of track?  How often will the car be tracked?

The second step is to recognize the technological understanding of various performance upgrades that our customers have.  We NEVER want to assume you know anything at all, because ultimately, the decision is yours and you have to own it, and drive it.  Our goal is to make sure you know your options, the tech behind it, and why any 1 solution may be better than another, for your specific needs and use.

We spend a lot of time teaching our customers about performance technology.  We often have customers that will ask for a simple quote for a supercharger for instance, or coilover and suspension needs.  Thats easy to accomplish, but we don’t know if the customer realizes what else may be needed to make that solution work reliably.  Sometimes supporting modifications have already been made, but we don’t know about them, so we ask.  Please understand that we aren’t asking just to sell you something else, but to make sure your end result is right the first time, safe, and reliable, and perhaps we have thoughts about and experienced something you may have not.

Lets get back to planning and what to plan for.  We take into consideration all vehicle systems.  From suspension to brakes, to fuel and exhaust, to controls and logging and management, to general safety including seats, seat belts, cages, and of course, traction.

You have to plan for all of these systems at some level.  Some modifications don’t really need extensive planning, we know that of course, such as a simple intake, exhaust and tune.  But in planning for the basics, that may not be the end game.  In fact, with other modifications, those systems may need to be replaced.  Out goal is to have you spend your money once, the way, in phases and stages as necessary, so that you minimize throwing money away.

A little more this topic now.  Throwing money away.  That’s easy to do.  We all like the immediate gratification that a set of lowering springs, exhaust and an intake for example, make to a vehicle.  It’s very difficult sometimes to wait 3-6 months or longer for your goal to be had, so we all get impatient and want to do “something”, versus nothing for along time.  Some of us have extra money an don’t care, and some plan on selling the basics mods later when they come off the car.  No matter what, if it comes off later, there is a loss, and that loss can make a project take longer and money is being spent in the wrong places at the wrong times.  If we can plan and phase the build properly, then we can plan for things and change now, that won’t lose you that investment dollar other than maybe some labor costs.

Many of our customers come with knowledge and ideas from what they have heard from the internet or forums.  While much of this information can be valuable, unless it is typically coming from a shop of some sort, its usually biased toward what someone else has already put on their own cars and worked for them…but always remember, you are not them and may have different goals.

At LA Street Cars, we spend a lot of time planning your build.  We want to make sure you are getting what you asked for and expect in the end.  Part of that expectation is also knowing that you know how to drive a car with the enhanced performance you will receive.  Granted, exhaust and intakes make such a minor improvement that driving technique really won’t change much at all, versus a Supercharger or Turbo setup.  We also help in this area with some training too.  We like going with our customers to events, such as drag races, air strip attacks, and others, to help them learn how to manage the power and the car.  This goes back to safety, and we often encourage our customers to attend some training as tracks as well, while the car is being built, so they can handle the car and respect the power, before they get into it for the first time.

I hope this post has helped you to realize what should go into your project at a planning phase.  Considering EVERYTHING is key from Day 1…and we do that every day!

Welcome to LA Street Cars – First Post!

Welcome to LA Street Cars – First Post!

Our Approach To Custom Car Building

Hello all!  This is the first BLOG post of LA Street Cars and I wanted to welcome you to our website and services.

LA Street Cars is the Motorsports division of PK Auto Design (PKAD) (www.pkautodesign.com).  PKAD specializes in vehicle appearance from custom wheels and tire packages for American Muscle, European, and Exotic specialty needs, to body kits, wraps and vinyl.  LA Street Cars is focused on performance upgrades to these cars, specializing in American Muscle and European applications.

At LA Street Cars, we focus on the customer experience for the long-term.  We want to build your dreams when it comes to your prized automotive possessions, so you can really get the car you wanted, versus the one that the manufacturer built for the masses.  We take into consideration how you expect to drive your car, whether it be a daily driver, weekend project and hobby car, cruiser, show car, or race car.

LA Street Cars takes a consultative approach to providing solutions that fit your needs and we expect to exceed expectations at all levels.  Our approach allows us to fully understand your needs and desires and translate them into real life usability.  Our focus is for performance with a lasting attitude.  We expect, as our customers do, that what we build will last, with minimal general maintenance, versus constant maintenance and repair.  We want you to enjoy your car every day, weekend, event, show and race…whatever your desire, we can build you a solution to fit.

Another focus we have is education.  We like our customers to be able to fully understand their options and choose their end game solution.  Sometimes that solution is suspension modifications, forced induction, appearance, and many times and combination of some or all.  We teach our customers as much about the technology options they have so they can also talk about them when they go to shows, post on forums, and in all reality, brag about what they have helped build.

It’s no fun showing a car, or being asked questions about your build, that you can’t answer intelligently or correctly.  This is where the fine line of having a car that is built for you, versus building it yourself.  The old adage of “is it bought or built” is one many of us fight with.  Some think every car is “bought” if you physically did not do the build yourself…we disagree.  If you buy a car that is already built, without your say in the process…then yes, that is a “bought” car.  If you have intimate knowledge of the build, made the decisions of what and how to build it, but have a shop do that build for you, then we consider that a “built” car.  Your hands do not have to get dirty, and at the same time, you can have all the knowledge of the solution without knowing how to actually install the components that ultimately make your dream car come true.

At LA Street Cars, we build your dreams come true!

We look forward to talking to you soon!  Feel free to email us at info@lastreetcars.com to get started or call us at (818) 408-6989.  Fell free to check out our Instagram and Facebook pages as well simply @lastreetcars or @pkautodesign